Mehtar Lām

Day Trips

Touch down in Mehtar Lām and transfer to your charming guesthouse overlooking the Kunar River. Begin with a light breakfast of naan, honey, and steaming chai as you meet your local guide. Feel the pulse of the town awakening as shopkeepers arrange colorful spices and textiles in the bazaar stalls.

Embark on a walking orientation through the narrow mud-brick alleys, pausing at the bustling main square to admire the centuries-old mosque façade. Sample street snacks like bolani stuffed with potatoes and fresh herbs while listening to friendly vendors. Return to the guesthouse for a brief rest and tea served with local pistachios.

Dine on a hearty Afghan pulao flavored with carrots and lamb at a family-run restaurant by the riverside. As dusk falls, enjoy the glow of lanterns dancing on ancient walls while your guide recounts local legends. End the night with sweet sheer payra and a moonlit stroll along the water’s edge.

Dive into the vibrant bazaar early to witness artisans weaving silk scarves and kilims on wooden looms. Breathe in the scent of saffron and coriander mingling in the air as merchants call out in Pashto. Take time to handle hand-painted ceramics and learn about traditional lacquer work from craftsmen at their stalls.

Visit a cooperative of women weavers in a side street workshop, watching them dye wool with walnut husks and pomegranate rind. Try your hand at simple weaving techniques while sharing stories over mint tea and dried apricots. Stroll back past spice towers to select gifts of hand-rolled pistachios and rosewater.

Gather at a rooftop café for sunset views over the Laghman Valley, sipping cardamom chai infused with local herbs. Watch local musicians tune their rubabs and tablas as the call to prayer echoes in the distance. Savor a light dinner of mantu dumplings filled with spiced beef and yogurt drizzle.

Travel to the outskirts to explore the World War II-era trenches carved into the hills by British-Indian forces. Walk cautiously along the narrow foxholes, imagining soldiers’ daily routines in this remote terrain. Take photographs of weathered sandbags and rusted artifacts half-buried in the soil.

Descend into an ancient rock-cut shrine dedicated to a local saint, admiring faded frescoes and carved inscriptions. Enjoy a picnic of flatbread, cheese, and grapes beneath the shade of walnut trees. Listen to your guide describe the shrine’s role in caravan routes linking Kabul to Jalalabad centuries ago.

Return to Mehtar Lām for a cooking demonstration featuring biryani seasoned with local turmeric and chilies. Roll, fill, and steam soft dumplings called aushak under the watchful eye of a master chef. Cap the evening with a shared bowl of sweet rice pudding topped with saffron strands.

Set off before dawn in a 4x4 convoy up winding mountain roads toward a remote Pashtun hamlet. Arrive as villagers greet the day tending to the flocks of sheep and goats grazing on terraced hillsides. Join a local family for fresh yogurt and rustic flatbread in their courtyard.

Hike along grassy ridges to a vantage point overlooking the Laghman River valley, pausing to photograph grazing horses and grazing eagles overhead. Descend to a clear spring where you can rinse dusty boots and refill water bottles. Gather under an apricot tree to share a lunch of roasted corn and sweet tomatoes picked from nearby gardens.

Return to town via a scenic forest road at golden hour, with mist weaving through the pines. At sundown, relax with a cup of mint-infused chai and crisp sesame biscuits. Dine on gently spiced lamb kebabs served with chopped salad and freshly baked naan.

Depart early for Khoshabad Canyon, a dramatic gorge carved by seasonal floods. Begin a moderate trek along the canyon floor, where towering walls of red sandstone rise on either side. Pause at hidden pools fed by trickling streams to cool your feet and revel in the silence.

Climb to a natural viewpoint for sweeping vistas of jagged cliffs and distant mountain peaks. Spread out a lunch of dried apricots, flatbread, and smoked cheese while your guide recounts geological formations. Descend back into the shaded canyon corridors, spotting wildflowers clinging to crevices.

Return to Mehtar Lām for a restorative bath in a traditional hammam, where attendants apply fragrant black soap and rosewater. Soothe tired muscles under a cascade of warm water before wrapping in plush towels. End the day with a light dinner of lentil soup and cumin-seasoned rice.

Step into a local kitchen to learn the art of Afghan cooking from a skilled home cook. Begin by grinding fresh coriander, cumin, and red chilies to craft authentic curry pastes. Practice kneading dough for fluffy chapati and shape it under the chef’s gentle guidance.

Prepare a three-course feast featuring tabarok (vegetable stew), mutton kabuli pulao layered with raisins and carrots, and a cucumber-yogurt salad. Stir simmering pots and taste-test spices as aromas swirl through the room. Share lunch at the family table, sipping sweet tea and swapping stories about culinary traditions.

Head to a neighborhood teahouse to sample specialty green teas and cardamom-infused blends. Pair your brew with honey-drenched pastries and watch locals play backgammon under low lantern light. Absorb the relaxed atmosphere as the town settles into evening chatter.

After a leisurely breakfast, pack a light picnic and head to the western bank of the Sangu River. Stroll along pebbled shores where shepherds tend to flocks beside gentle currents. Observe kingfishers diving for fish amid reeds and wildflowers.

Venture upriver by boat, drifting past groves of willow and poplar trees. Stop at a secluded sandbar for tea brewed over an open flame and slices of fresh watermelon. Share quiet moments watching herons take flight against the backdrop of distant peaks.

Position yourself on a rocky outcrop as the sky ignites in orange and pink hues at sunset. Unpack your picnic of stuffed grape leaves, grilled eggplant, and sweet pomegranate seeds. Let the soft lapping of water and chirping cicadas accompany your farewell to the day.

Journey eastward to the lush Shalgar Valley, passing terraced fields of maize and wheat. Meet a local guide who leads you through orchards heavy with apples and apricots. Savor fresh fruit as you learn about sustainable irrigation channels used for centuries.

Picnic beneath ancient walnut trees on a carpet of wildflowers, sharing flatbread and dried fruit while birds sing overhead. Continue downstream to a cascading waterfall that forms natural pools for a refreshing dip. Photograph vibrant moss and ferns clinging to sunlit rocks.

Return at dusk, stopping for pan-fried trout caught fresh from the valley stream. Squeeze lemon over the fillets and sprinkle with local herbs. Drive back to Mehtar Lām under a sky blanketed with stars, dreaming of tomorrow’s farewell.

Visit a local music school to observe students mastering the rubab, harmonium, and tabla. Listen to instructors demonstrate the rhythmic patterns of the traditional Attan dance. Try your hand at simple beats on the tabla under their patient direction.

Relax at your guesthouse while artisans set up the courtyard stage with mats and lanterns. Sample light snacks like makhshi—rice stuffed grape leaves—and cool yoghurt beverages. Prepare for the evening’s cultural performance by donning a decorative shawl.

Gather in the courtyard as musicians tune their instruments and dancers swirl in colorful skirts. Feel the pulse of the Attan call to prayer drums building in tempo, inviting everyone to join in. Conclude with heartfelt applause, sweet rosewater dessert, and a final chorus of local folk songs.

Spend a slow morning visiting favorite spots in the bazaar to pick up last-minute keepsakes like pashmina scarves and intricate brassware. Chat with shopkeepers you’ve come to know and exchange farewells over cups of green tea. Return to the guesthouse to pack and rest.

Gather for a communal farewell lunch featuring a banquet of lentil keema, spinach stew, and saffron rice. Share memories of the trip with your guide as platters of flatbread and fresh salad circulate around the table. Indulge in sweet jalebi spirals drenched in honey to mark the closing meal.

Enjoy a final stroll along the Kunar River under a rising moon, listening to water lapping against the shore. Reflect on the people you’ve met, the landscapes you’ve crossed, and the flavors you’ve savored. Depart Mehtar Lām with a heart full of Afghan hospitality and plans to return soon.