Things To Do
in El Retorno

El Retorno is a small riverside town in Colombia located along the Guaviare River at coordinates 2.3306, -72.6278. It merges riverine culture with lush Amazonian landscapes, offering a relaxed pace and friendly local welcome. Access is typically via regional air travel followed by road and boat transfers, which adds to its remote and adventurous appeal.

The surrounding forests, wetlands, and palm groves teem with wildlife, making it a solid base for nature and cultural exploration.

Day Trips

Spend a day exploring around

day 1
Exploring the Heart of El Retorno
morning
:

Start your journey by visiting the vibrant local market in El Retorno, where you can immerse yourself in the colors and aromas of fresh produce and handmade crafts. Engage with friendly vendors and sample local delicacies while soaking in the lively atmosphere. This is a great opportunity to take photos and interact with the locals to learn more about their culture.

afternoon
:

After lunch, take a scenic walk along the Guaviare River, enjoying the stunning views of the lush landscapes and diverse wildlife. You can rent a kayak and paddle along the calm waters, enjoying the tranquility of nature. Keep an eye out for unique bird species and other wildlife native to this beautiful region.

evening
:

As the sun sets, head to a popular local restaurant to savor traditional Colombian dishes such as bandeja paisa or sancocho. Enjoy a warm atmosphere filled with music and laughter as you share stories with fellow travelers and locals. Conclude your day with a leisurely stroll back to your accommodations, taking in the peaceful sounds of the night.

day 2
Adventure in the Amazonian Jungle
morning
:

Wake up early and prepare for an adventure into the Amazonian jungle surrounding El Retorno. Join a guided tour that takes you deep into the rainforest, where you'll learn about the rich biodiversity and importance of this unique ecosystem. Keep your camera handy for photos of exotic plants and creatures that inhabit this lush environment.

afternoon
:

During the afternoon, participate in a traditional survival workshop that teaches you essential skills for living in the jungle, including building shelters and identifying edible plants. This hands-on experience will enhance your appreciation for the indigenous cultures that thrive in this region. Refresh with a lunch of local fruits and snacks provided by your guide.

evening
:

After a day of exploration, return to El Retorno and unwind at a local café. Share your experiences with fellow adventurers while enjoying a delicious cup of Colombian coffee. Listen to the soothing sounds of the night as you reflect on the incredible sights and sounds of the jungle.

Cost Guide

Prices

ItemPrice
🍔Meal at inexpensive restaurant$5-12
🏨Lodging per night (budget)$20-40
🚗Local transportation (short ride)$1-3
🛶Guided river excursion$25-60
🧴Mosquito repellent$2-6

Strengths and Weaknesses

  • Rich biodiversity and wildlife in a relatively uncrowded setting
  • Affordable travel with authentic riverine culture and cuisine
  • Unique river-based adventures and indigenous community experiences
  • Remote location with limited infrastructure and healthcare options
  • Language barriers can be a challenge for non-Spanish speakers
  • Seasonal variations in travel can affect river access and visibility
  • "¿Habla inglés?" - Do you speak English?
  • "¿Dónde está el mercado?" - Where is the market?
  • "Gracias" - Thank you
  • "La cuenta, por favor" - The check, please
  • "Buenos días" - Good morning
  • "¿Cuánto cuesta?" - How much does it cost?
  • "Ayuda" - Help

Places to Visit in El Retorno

Visit one of these nice places.

Río Guaviare al amanecer

Golden light over the wide river with silhouettes of mangroves and palm trees; a peaceful spot for wide-angle river photography.

Muelle del río y mercado

Colorful boats, market activity, and reflections on the water create vibrant street photography opportunities.

Clays and riverbank formations

Natural clay banks along the river offer interesting textures and hues, especially during early or late light.

Casas y cabañas junto al río

Colorful riverside homes provide intimate portrait and street photography possibilities.

Culinary Guide

Food in El Retorno

El Retorno sits in the Amazonian fringe, where riverine cuisine centers on fresh fish, plantains, yucca, cassava dishes, and tropical fruits. Dishes are heartily seasoned and showcase the abundance of the river and forest, often prepared in family-style settings.

El Retorno Famous Food

Signature dishes, delicacies and famous food

Pirarucu a la parrilla

Grilled pirarucu river fish served with cassava or plantains; a signature river dish found at many riverfront eateries.

Must-Try!

Pescado frito del río

Freshly fried river fish with yuca, patacones, or rice; common at markets and casual riverfront spots.

Sopa de yuca y plátano

A hearty yucca and plantain soup with regional herbs, often enjoyed as a comforting staple.

Food Markets

Explore local food markets

Mercado Municipal de El Retorno

Colorful local market offering fresh fish, fruits, yuca, cassava bread, roots, and handmade crafts; a great place to sample everyday flavors.

Climate Guide

Weather

The region experiences a hot, humid tropical rainforest climate year-round. Daytime temperatures typically range from the mid 80s to low 90s Fahrenheit (30–34 C), with high humidity. Rain can come in heavy bursts any time, though there are wetter and relatively drier periods through the year. Expect lush vegetation and frequent thunderstorms, especially in the rainy season.

How to Behave

Tips on cultural norms and respectful behavior

Greetings and respect

Greet locals with a smile and a handshake. Show respect to elders and community leaders; ask permission before entering homes or taking photos of people, especially in indigenous or rural communities.

Dressing and demeanor

Dress modestly in public areas; avoid loud or confrontational behavior; preserve quiet, relaxed rhythms in social spaces.

Photography etiquette

Always ask before photographing people, crafts, or ceremonies; some communities reserve photography for guides or hosts.

Safety Guide

Safety

Travelers should exercise standard river town precautions: stay with guides or authorized tours, avoid isolated areas at night, and safeguard valuables. Mosquito protection is important to reduce malaria and other insect-borne risks. Use reputable transport and accommodations, carry identification, and have a basic plan for emergencies with local contact numbers. Check local advisories and travel recommendations before trips into remote forest areas.

Tipping in El Retorno

Ensure a smooth experience

Tipping Etiquette

In restaurants, a tip of 5-10% is appreciated if service is good; in tourist-focused spots 10% is common. For guides and boat crews, small tips at the end of a trip are customary.

Payment Methods

Cash (Colombian pesos or USD) is widely accepted in town; credit cards may be limited to larger establishments or tourist services. Carry small denominations for markets and vendors.

Best Time to Visit

And what to expect in different seasons...

Dry Season

Expect hotter days with less rainfall, making boat travel and outdoor activities more comfortable. Humidity remains high but rivers are navigable and trails are drier.

Wet Season

Frequent showers and heavier humidity; waterways swell, which can enhance river wildlife viewing but may raise travel times. Mosquitoes are more active; bring repellent and light rain gear.

Transition Periods

Shoulder months can offer a mix of sun and rain; good for versatile outdoor plans, but be prepared for sudden showers and ground dampness.

Nightlife Guide

El Retorno at Night

The nightlife in El Retorno is modest and laid-back, with riverside bars offering casual tunes and socializing. Live music and drum-based performances may appear on weekends or during special events, but most evenings center around conversation, sunset views, and relaxing by the river. Families often enjoy early evenings by the water, so the scene is friendly and low-key rather than a party atmosphere.

Hiking in El Retorno

Immerse in an unforgettable hike.

Forest edge trails along the river

Gentle to moderate trails offering birdwatching, canopy views, and opportunities to observe local flora.

Riverside lookout points

Short hikes to overlooks with panoramic river and forest vistas, ideal for photography at dawn or dusk.

Airports

How to reach El Retorno by plane.

San José del Guaviare Airport (SJE)

Regional airport connecting to major Colombian cities; from the airport, road and river transfers connect you to El Retorno.

Leticia Alfredo Vásquez Cobo International Airport (LET)

Major gateway to southern Amazonia; typically used for longer journeys to reach El Retorno by combination of air and river travel.

Getting Around

Walkability

El Retorno is compact and walkable within the town core, with most sights reachable on foot. For river trips, forest hikes, and longer excursions, you will rely on boats, guides, and light vehicles. Prepare for uneven, sometimes muddy streets during the rainy season.

Demographics

Explore demographics in this area.

Ethnic and community mix

A blend of mestizo residents with riverine communities and some indigenous groups; languages include Spanish and various indigenous tongues in nearby areas.

Popular Sports

Explore popular sports in region.

Football (soccer)

The most popular sport across the region, played in streets and local clubs.

Canoeing and fishing

Common activities on the river, incorporating traditional skills and local guides.

Transportation

Traffic

Traffic in El Retorno is light within town, with most movement by walking or small vehicles. Access to surrounding areas usually requires river transport or local taxis, and some rural roads may be rough or closed during the rainy season. Navigation by boat is often faster and more scenic than road travel in this region.

Accomodations

Find the best place to stay when visiting El Retorno.

Dietary Restrictions

Tips for restricted diets.

Vegetarian

Many plantain, yucca, bean, and vegetable dishes are available; ask for no fish or meat and request oil or broth to be prepared separately if needed.

Health & Medical

Healthcare

Healthcare facilities in El Retorno are basic, with local clinics available for routine needs. For more serious care, travelers typically go to larger regional centers such as San José del Guaviare, where hospitals and more comprehensive services exist. Travel insurance that covers medical evacuation is advised for remote areas.

Discover Colombia

Read more in our Colombia 2025 Travel Guide.

Colombia Travel Guide